We ventured out at 10:00am, picked up Pastor James' brother-in-law (Pastor Sam), and headed on our way to our first site. Pastor Sam is our host for our time here in Rwanda. He is an Anglican pastor, a Rwandan Tutsi born in Uganda when his parents fled Uganda during the first genocide in 1959 when the Belgiums left and flipped the ruling system on its head. Pastor Sam tried to return to Rwanda in 1994 after the hundred days of genocide but found it still wasn't a good place to live. He returned for good in 1998.
For those of you who don't know much about the Rwandan genocide, here's a brief history. When Belgium took over colonial rule of Rwanda after WWI, they took the two major ethnic groups--the Hutus and the Tutsi--and drew a deep line between the two. Previously these two groups had lived in harmony, intermarrying and mixing seamlessly. The Belgians, however, needed a way to rule their new territory and decided through confused science that the Tutsi were superior to the Hutus. They placed the minority Tutsis over the majority Hutus.
However, as independence became more of a reality and with the death of the Tutsi King, the Hutus gained power within the country with the aid of the Belgiums. As the Rwandan republic was formed, the Hutu majority were elected into power. This was the beginning of the ethnic cleansing of the Tutsi people.
The pinnacle of this ethnic cleansing was in 1994. In the course of 100 days, over a million Tutsis and their Hutu allies were slaughtered. There is so much failed politics involved with this 100 days, and I encourage you if you are interested to read more. However, all you really need to understand is that the Hutus did not consider the Tutsi to be people. They considered them "cockroaches," and with the help of propaganda and fear, neighbors turned on neighbors and wives turned on husbands and children.
Hopefully with this brief history, you can picture a bit more of what we saw today. Our first visit was to a church about 20km outside of Kigali. The church is the site of a massacre of 5,000 Tutsis. In African culture, churches are seen as spiritual safe havens. When people feel threatened, they flee to the church. That was the case in the Rwandan genocide. Unfortunately the churches failed the people.
As we walked up to this church, I wasn't exactly sure what to expect. All I knew was that there was a possibility of seeing bones. Nothing really could have prepared me for what we actually saw. As we walked into the sanctuary where mostly women and children were huddled, we were immediately confronted with deep shelves, four high, hold skull after skull and femur after femur. The sight was both appalling and overwhelming.
However, for some reason, the real traumatic sight for me were the clothes. As I turned around from the bones towards the front of the sanctuary, I became aware that hanging from the walls were layers upon layers of clothes. These soiled clothes belonged to the massacred bodies. The site of these clothes made my knees weak.
Also on this same compound were a Sunday School room where people were also slaughtered and another room where the people were literally burnt alive. Of the 5,000 people who were estimated to be murdered, only 250 have been identified. Why so few? The suggestion is that there is no one left to identify them. Their whole family was slaughtered.
After viewing that church, I thought I had seen the worst. However, our next visit proved me wrong. Pastor Sam took us to a second church, a much larger church. There the people crammed together, shoulder to shoulder, hoping to escape the killing posses coming through. They were not spared. Imagine a church sanctuary the size of Third Reformed and 10,000 people cram into it, and as the military trucks approach, you cling to a hope that maybe you'll be spared. But then you hear the sounds of grenades going off, and you realize that the wall is being blown away bit by bit. And then the screams begin.
Pastor Sam said that the floors were like a river of blood. As I walked through the piles of clothes that covered every pew, I almost had this sense that I was walking on their blood. And when I saw the altar that was still stained with blood, I could almost hear their cries. I have never walked in a place where 10,000 people were killed in a matter of minutes.
Behind the church are the mass graves built for the victims. They are below ground, and people can walk through rows upon rows of bones and caskets for those identified. I forced myself to walk through them, telling myself that it is the least I can do for those who died there.
Following our last church visit, the students grabbed a snack at a mall area in Kigali before we headed off to the Genocide Museum. The museum reminded me of the Holocaust Museum in Washington DC and provided a lot of great history for all of us. Also, we were able to put some faces to some of the bones we saw at the churches. In all, it took about an hour and a half to walk through the museum.
Nevertheless, by the time we left the museum, we were completely emotionally spent. Much of our car ride was quiet, as we all tried to let all that we saw sink in. I still can't fully fathom what I saw, but I can tell you that humans are capable of unimaginable evil.
We took many pictures and videos with the hope that when we return they will help us relate what we saw more fully, but I have to be honest. Even walking through the churches and breathing in the air dripping with grief does not give a true picture of the terror, pain, and suffering that occurred on those grounds a decade and a half ago. Only the dead understand.
May God grant us the strength to stand up for what is right, defend those who are helpless, and encourage those who are weak.